Set within the center of South Australia’s Ikara-Flinders Levels Nationwide Park, Wilpena Pound is a shocking herbal amphitheatre and an award-winning public artwork house. It’s a sacred position for the Adnyamathanha folks, and as Tiana Templeman discovers, it’s the easiest spot to connect to Nation.
Adnyamathanha information Vince Coulthard’s father, Clem Coulthard, at all times mentioned, “How are we able to be expecting Udnyu [‘white people’, in the local language] to grasp us if we don’t percentage our tradition?” Clem was once head ranger at Ikara-Flinders Levels Nationwide Park within the Nineteen Eighties. He was once Nation, and when Vince grew up, he determined to observe in his father footsteps. He’s been guiding in this Land since 2018.
Our Intrepid workforce has come to Ikara (Wilpena Pound) to sign up for him on a guided stroll that shines a gentle on Adnyamathanha historical past, which stretches again 1000’s of years, and percentage tales in regards to the park’s more moderen previous. Finding out about Nation and the tradition of this position with a Conventional Custodian is a rewarding and tangible option to beef up Australia’s reconciliation adventure. It’s considered one of 3 First Countries excursions integrated on our seven-day Intrepid Flinders Levels Explorer shuttle.
The dramatic mountains and rugged peaks that make up Ikara stretch 17 kilometres around the russet panorama at Ikara-Flinders Levels Nationwide Park. In combination, they devise a curve which bureaucracy a herbal ‘pound’ or enclosure, 8 kilometres vast. Within the Adnyamathanha language, the title Ikara manner assembly position, and it is still a vacation spot the place folks can come in combination and percentage tales.
We spark off with Vince, who leads us throughout his folks’s Land and against the far away choice of farm constructions referred to as Outdated Wilpena Station. White settlers had been first observed through First Countries Custodians of the Flinders Levels within the 1840s, they usually no doubt made an impact.
“When the white fellas became up, our folks concept they had been ghosts,” says Vince.
He explains that once Adnyamathanha folks died, they had been lined in white clay as a part of a conventional burial rite. Because the Europeans made their manner around the panorama, it gave the impression as though the spirits of the First Countries Custodians of Ikara had returned and had been strolling the earth.
As historical past displays, this wasn’t the one explanation why the Adnyamathanha needed to be involved in regards to the arrival of Eu settlers. It didn’t take lengthy for the pastoralists to say spaces with simple get entry to to water for themselves and their inventory. The Adnyamathanha had been evaded those and different herbal assets and retaliated through stealing sheep, one thing that didn’t cross unpunished through the settlers.
Farming additionally took a toll on Adnyamathanha Land, that have been now not being controlled in conventional tactics. As we get nearer to Outdated Wilpena Station, Vince explains it is going to take centuries for the realm to regenerate after being farmed.
As Australia continues operating against reconciliation and strengthening relationships between Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples and non-Indigenous peoples, the selection of First Countries-run excursions on Intrepid journeys have higher to beef up this adventure. Like many of those studies, our Ikara excursion comprises the historical past of the Conventional Homeowners and people who got here after them, and likewise appears to be like to the longer term. It’s an method that sits smartly with Vince Coulthard.
“Aboriginal tradition is all about sharing and it’s in regards to the tales. What took place must be stated after which we will transfer on,” he says. “We will’t undo the previous. It must be stated or we will’t transfer ahead.”
In 2009, the Adnyamathanha folks had been recognised because the Conventional Homeowners of Wilpena Pound and the Flinders Levels area. They’ve been collectively managing Ikara-Flinders Levels Nationwide Park with the South Australian Govt since 2011. In addition they personal Wilpena Pound Hotel, which gives a viable manner for Adnyamathanha folks to paintings within the space and keep on Nation.
“Aboriginal tradition is all about sharing and it’s in regards to the tales. What took place must be stated after which we will transfer on.”
Vince Coulthard
As we make our manner around the panorama, Vince issues out hole bushes that Adnyamathanha moms and young children as soon as used for refuge, and the most productive spots to search out acacia seeds to make damper. We’re tramping within the footsteps of Sir Douglas Mawson, who trustworthy a lot of his lifestyles to researching the area. Mawson was once a geologist and lecturer on the College of Adelaide previous to turning into an Antarctic explorer. Even if he will have to had been acclimatising in preparation for upcoming expeditions in subzero temperatures, he couldn’t withstand the pull of this improbable position.
Once we succeed in the choice of constructions at Outdated Wilpena Station, our workforce settles down on a seat at a place referred to as The Assembly Position, which could also be an award-winning public artwork house. Vince explains Adnyamathanha is made up of 2 other phrases: adnya, which means rock, and mathanya, which means folks, and there are introduction tales throughout us. He gestures against the encompassing mountains and issues out Ngarri Mudlanha (St Mary Height) shimmering within the distance.
Ngarri Mudlanha is the very best level within the Flinders Levels and the Adnyamathanha consider it’s the head of a big Akurra (serpent) who performed a key position within the introduction tale of Ikara. Past due one night time, whilst everybody was once at a corroboree, two mighty Akurra (serpents) ready to assault. Yurlu, the Kingfisher Guy, noticed the risk however it was once too overdue. Most effective Yurlu and Walha the Wild Turkey Guy controlled to flee. Then again, the 2 serpents paid without equal value for his or her grasping ambush. The Akurra had been so complete they may now not transfer and died the place they lay, with their our bodies forming the partitions of the pound. Glance carefully whilst you’re out strolling, says Vince, and also you’ll see rocks that seem to be imprinted with rows of big scales.
On our as far back as the customer centre, turquoise mulga parrots flit thru 500 year-old bushes, growing splashes of color towards a panorama that’s wealthy with tales and historical past. Ikara is 300 metres upper than Uluru, and arguably simply as culturally important, however none of our workforce realised the affect this sacred position would have on us.
That afternoon, we discover one of the crucial scaly rocks that Vince was once speaking about and are reminded of the 2 mighty Akurra serpents. It’s superb what you’ll see when your eyes – and your center, thoughts, and soul – are opened to the herbal wonders round you.
Wish to discover Wilpena Pound your self? Take a look at our 7-day Flinders Levels Explorer shuttle.